Rainy Approach to Santiago

Gallicia is famed for its unpredictable weather, and that continues. The past three days have been cloudy, chilly, and wet. 

Yesterday was just a tough 16+ miles, finishing in a nice rural hotel as we had also the night before. But the long days and later arrivals leave little time for drying out.

Today, Tuesday, day 38, was finally sunny again. We have one more day of walking into Santiago tomorrow. 

A Rainy Anniversary from Sarria

Saturday, day 34, took us out of Sarria to Portomarin. It was also our 32d Wedding Anniversary, celebrated with Trish's favorite KitKat!

This was the day we broke the last 100km milestone above. 

Lots of rain but also beautiful views. And champagne and chocolate at the end provided by Helen and Robert!

The Way to O Ceberio

Wednesday, day 31, was the 18+ mile walk up to O Ceberio, the mountain village of Napoleonic War fame where the British got away from the French, getting their rather inept commander killed in the process, and making way for Wellington to take command, which ultimately ended badly for Napoleon at Waterloo, some time later... 

Anyway, O Ceberio is a 30 km walk from Villafranca, 20 km flat; 10 km up. That's 6 miles on muddy tracks, shared with horses, after already walking 12 miles. In 2013 we did it over 2 days; this time in 1. 

Yeah, we did it. And arrived in time for 7pm mass to boot! 

The Longest Day and the Best Wine

Ponteferrada to Villafranca del Biezos was another 15 mile day, but now nearing rainy Gallicia, we got a taste of rains to come. 

The path out of Ponteferrada took us past familiar spots from 2013 and to an important new discovery. In mid afternoon, looking for a place for a short beer stop, we instead entered a cafe with the most wonderful white and red wine we have had on the entire journey. Our short stop turned into an hour and, had we had less far to go, would have turned into a second bottle. 

Small Miracles in Ponteferrada

John's boot situation had been getting worse; tape on the bottom was coming off on the very rocky paths and the tear in the worn through sole was getting worse.  We needed a real shoe repair and we couldn't wait hours for it at the start of another 15 mile day. We also needed money as there are banking riots here and fears the banks could shut down. And a pharmacy. But opening hours in Spain are iffy. 

Well, we started walking out of Ponteferrada at 9, looking for all of the above with some vague directions from our hotel, and stopped into the large church- which had an English mass going on for a group of Australian pilgrims on a bus tour. So of course we had to stay, even though we had another long day ahead. 

Afterward, a shopkeeper sent us to one shoe repair place that didn't open til 10am (and actually did open 15 min late) where the repairman looked at John's boot and said he could do nothing. As we were leaving he mentioned a "zapaterria" around the corner. Thinking that might be a shoe store with "shoe goo" for a makeshift repair, off we went. Of course it was this little key cutting shop that also did shoe repairs. The proprietor took one look, said "no problema" and demanded both boots for patches that took 5 minutes!

Day 29 - The Descent to Ponteferrada

What goes up, must come down, and the descent from Cruz de Ferro, the highest point of the Camino, is in a word, hellish. Several miles of what once might have been a Roman road, now a steep, rutted, eroding goat path. It was bad in 2013 and worse now. 

We made it to the delightful town of Molinaseca, had a beer, and John made a new friend. Then we walked another 7 km to Ponteferrada. A very long 16 mile day.

Day 29 - Almost Freezing at Cruz de Ferro

Photo credit to Robert for Dawn pix. Going to be cold this AM as we go to CdF. 36 degrees now at 6:45am. Wind 4-11 mph after high winds yesterday on the ascent. Wool underwear will finally get used. 

The approach up the hill, above. The 4 of us, below.

Now It Gets Interesting

On Sunday, Day 28, we started the final third of our journey from Astorga. The math says it all: 164 miles /11 days = 15 miles a day with no more rest days. And we start gaining altitude. High = cold, windy and (maybe) rainy, although so far we have had extraordinarily good weather. Sunday was cold, sunny and with a high headwind as we started the climb. The "Igor" look is in with the "Buff" neck protector pulled over the ears for warmth when we stopped for mid morning beer.

Above is the little wayside shrine "Ecce Homo" right outside of Astorga. Below you see us bundled against the high wind.

Wayside photos

On the way to Astorga, we reencountered the bridge and jousting field at Hospital where a famous joust occurred a thousand years ago and jousting still happens. 

Further, John did some repair work on his boot that is wearing through after over 1000 miles of walking since 2013. Hope it can last these next 264 km and 11 days!

Below is one of those interesting places you pass that cry out to be visited.

Gaudi and Astorga

Astorga was our Saturday destination as we start the hardest part of the Camino in the next two weeks. Finally arrived in time to see the Bishop's palace (bishop never lived there - died soon after started and Gaudi gave it up with someone else finishing his design). It is fantastic architecture and being beautifully restored. 

To the Beautiful Mill

Hotel Molinas Galochas in Villavante is our favorite place on the Camino and we returned there on Friday. In Villavente, we encountered 90 year old Santiago who engaged us in an interest conversation about who we were and where we were going. 

The proprietor, Senora Mercedes, was pleased to see our 2013 pictures of her hotel and greeted us warmly. Afternoon rain kept us on back veranda over the old mill stream, but still a lovely day. 

Over the hill out of Leon

On Thursday, Climbed the hill out of Leon, past the beautiful modern church of Virgen Del Canino and along busy highway to Villadangos.

Camino has two branches and the other option we took in 2013 is quieter and we will taxi 7 k on Friday to rejoin it!

It still gives new meaning to Miraculous

Leon Cathedral continues to amaze as much on our second visit. We got to.noon mass in the lovely Blessed Sacrament chapel adjoining the cathedral which is a jewel in itself.

The stained glass in Leon is simply indescribable. So is the faith that created this miracle a thousand years ago and kept it standing.

Rest day in Leon

Arrived in Leon on Tuesday with Wednesday a rest day. No, John did not get to Burger King, but it was a nice thought in the long walk through Leon traffic!

We rediscovered the beauty of the "other" church in Leon, the Basilica of St Isidore, with a personal invitation from Father Pasqual, who we met by chance while checking in to our hotel at the Collegiata, to evening pilgrim benediction. Well, that turned into a personal talk about the Camino, St Isidore, Our Lady on the Camino and his blessing on the four of us in the private chapel off the sacristy. Below is the adjoining courtyard of our hotel with the Basilica.

Day 22 - to Mansilla de las Mulas

Monday marked Day 22, starting our 4th week on the Camino from El Burgo Ranero above, a nondescript town on the Meseta, the flat Spanish plain, and starting the busiest and most physically challenging parts, soon ahead after Leon.

We ended the day in Mansilla de las Mulas, a historic town we stayed in 2013. Wound up in the same accommodation, the Pension Blanca, we stayed in three years ago. We enjoy Mansilla because of the unique statue above, also pictured in our 2013 blog, but also because of the towns unique character as a major pilgrim waypoint - the town is crowded with Alburgues and pilgrims. 

People on the Camino

On Sunday, Day 21, encountered our German friend with her two very well-behaved dogs and cart. Then a new experience- never saw a Pilgrim carry a guitar before!

Unexpected Hospitality and Sahagun

Day 19 on Friday the 13th brought us from the grand Hotel Zoillo in Carrion to the somewhat humble but very happy and hospitable Hotel Camino Real in Caldadilla de la Cueza. Good food; a hospitable owner and bartender, in a little town where not much was going on made for a great overnight stay. Lots of warmth in the discussions among the Pilgrims.

Following that hospitality on Saturday, day 20, we went on to another town not our favorite, the small city of Sahagun where we walked back and forth across the town for a Sunday mass 3 years ago. Things improved this time as Robert & Helen scouted out an evening mass (so we did not repeat our search of 2013!) and Patricia ordered a truly memorable Spanish meal with the help of an excellent waiter!  

Sahagun deserves a closer look on our next trip!

Halfway on Day 20!!

4km out of Caldadilla on Saturday we hit the halfway point of our journey - 394.55km down; same to go. We look pretty good (Well, pretty scruffy if truth be told, but all on the Camino must be seen in the eyes of charity to fellow Pilgrims, so we will say "weathered" instead!)

Carry On - to Carrion de los Condes

Thursday was Day 18, with an accumulation of growing fatigue and the difficulty of intermittent rain, wind and cold. The chance discovery of the parish church in Poblacion de Campos in which the Blessed Sacrament was on the altar with two sisters in adoration was a welcome respite to the gray, cold day. 

Added to that was our return to the Alburgue Amanecer in Villamentero, notable for its chickens, geese and Indian teepee! Another fun place we would stay at the next time we walk the Camino!

As we approached Carrion we passed a German lady with two big dogs and a cart who we have met several times. She was hoping to find a dry room with her two wet friends rather than her tent- made us value our own hotel rooms more sincerely!

Day 17 - to Fromista

The road to Fromista from forgettable Castrojeriz takes you over the breathtaking ( in more ways than one!) Alto Mostelares - the long trek up an unforgettable hill which all peregrinos remember! Here we are at the top.

Then in over the locks we took a picture at in 2013...so many places we remember! Fromista had a wonderful Pilgrims Mass in which the priest blessed us individually- along with great gin and tonics at our hotel bar!