Day 29 - The Descent to Ponteferrada

What goes up, must come down, and the descent from Cruz de Ferro, the highest point of the Camino, is in a word, hellish. Several miles of what once might have been a Roman road, now a steep, rutted, eroding goat path. It was bad in 2013 and worse now. 

We made it to the delightful town of Molinaseca, had a beer, and John made a new friend. Then we walked another 7 km to Ponteferrada. A very long 16 mile day.

Day 29 - Almost Freezing at Cruz de Ferro

Photo credit to Robert for Dawn pix. Going to be cold this AM as we go to CdF. 36 degrees now at 6:45am. Wind 4-11 mph after high winds yesterday on the ascent. Wool underwear will finally get used. 

The approach up the hill, above. The 4 of us, below.

Now It Gets Interesting

On Sunday, Day 28, we started the final third of our journey from Astorga. The math says it all: 164 miles /11 days = 15 miles a day with no more rest days. And we start gaining altitude. High = cold, windy and (maybe) rainy, although so far we have had extraordinarily good weather. Sunday was cold, sunny and with a high headwind as we started the climb. The "Igor" look is in with the "Buff" neck protector pulled over the ears for warmth when we stopped for mid morning beer.

Above is the little wayside shrine "Ecce Homo" right outside of Astorga. Below you see us bundled against the high wind.

Wayside photos

On the way to Astorga, we reencountered the bridge and jousting field at Hospital where a famous joust occurred a thousand years ago and jousting still happens. 

Further, John did some repair work on his boot that is wearing through after over 1000 miles of walking since 2013. Hope it can last these next 264 km and 11 days!

Below is one of those interesting places you pass that cry out to be visited.

Gaudi and Astorga

Astorga was our Saturday destination as we start the hardest part of the Camino in the next two weeks. Finally arrived in time to see the Bishop's palace (bishop never lived there - died soon after started and Gaudi gave it up with someone else finishing his design). It is fantastic architecture and being beautifully restored. 

To the Beautiful Mill

Hotel Molinas Galochas in Villavante is our favorite place on the Camino and we returned there on Friday. In Villavente, we encountered 90 year old Santiago who engaged us in an interest conversation about who we were and where we were going. 

The proprietor, Senora Mercedes, was pleased to see our 2013 pictures of her hotel and greeted us warmly. Afternoon rain kept us on back veranda over the old mill stream, but still a lovely day. 

Over the hill out of Leon

On Thursday, Climbed the hill out of Leon, past the beautiful modern church of Virgen Del Canino and along busy highway to Villadangos.

Camino has two branches and the other option we took in 2013 is quieter and we will taxi 7 k on Friday to rejoin it!